Practice on scrap fabric until you can consistently judge the size of glue spots required.
Place glue spots onto fabric in whatever patterns you want. The glue spots must be smaller than the rhinestone you are using, the glue should just come around the rhinestone edge. You want to glue the rhinestone glass edge to the fabric, not just the back of the rhinestone. The bond of the foil backing to the glass of the rhinestone is not enough to hold the stone to the fabric over time and lots of use. Ultimately, if abused, you will have nice, bright shiny metallic spot of foil with no glass if you don't glue properly.
You will use smaller spots of glue with smaller stones, larger with larger. Practice with each size stone you use.
Do not apply any more spots of glue than you can set stones into within 60 seconds. If it is a dry day, do fewer at one time you do not want the glue to skim dry on the surface BEFORE the stone is set.
Most Glue is white when it comes out of the tube, and is water-soluble. It becomes clear when it dries, and is no longer water-soluble.
Use an applicator stick, such as the wax dop stick, or perfect positioner to make your life much easier. Apply the glue spots to the fabric, lightly touch the top side of the stone with the waxy end of the applicator stick, the stone will stick to the applicator stick, but you do not want it 'glued' to the stone. Push the stone into the glue with the applicator stick; lightly twirl the stick as you pull back. The rhinestone will stay in the glue and you can move on to the next stone very quickly. Do not even think about tweezers. Glue gets on the tips and the stones stick to the tweezers.
Allow rhinestone glue to begin to clear before moving to another part of the fabric and handle lightly, being careful not to undo stones that are drying.
Usually, 24 hours is a good drying time before wearing your garment. Wait one week to hand wash. Wash in cold to warm water.
Do Not Dry Clean Clothes With Glued Stones. The glue will discolor (yellow) and eventually become brittle.
If you loose a stone, reapply glue to same spot and replace stone as above.
IF you drip glue on fabric, use damp, clean cloth to remove. Wipe and repeat a few times.
Do Not Remove Glue From Satin With A Damp Cloth. You Will Water Spot The Satin.
The best way to avoid spots, etc., when gluing is to be careful.
HERE ARE SOME TIPS DIRECTLY FROM SWAROVSKI:
The work surface & your hands must be clean and dust free. Use the isopropyl alcohol or Acetone and then wipe clean. Trace a motif on your substrate by using a pencil.
Take up a bit of adhesive with the help of a syringe or any other appropriate dosing tool.
Place a small drop of adhesive on the substrate where you want to put the first crystal.
Pick up the crystal using a wax stick/ tweezers or any other appropriate Tool.
Gently place the crystal on the drop of adhesive and let the glue to dry according to manufacturers recommendations. Continue placing drops of glue and applying the crystal components according to the outlined motif.
After finishing the application of crystal components on the motif, dip a Q-Tip in Acetone and lightly go over the top of the crystal to remove any excess glue.
Click here to view an article written by Swarovski on gluing
Size AA 34-38 in. chest
Size BB 40-44 in. chest
Please see the attached pdf file for additional instructions and diagrams.
1. Whatever material you're using, you will need to pre punch a hole (the size of the rivet stem or a little bigger) where you want the rivet to go. I use a leather hand punch.
2. Load the Crystal Applicator Tool (see PDF)
3. Put the rhinestone rivet through the hole facing downward.
4. Slowly close the Applicator Tool so you get the protruding top into the hole on the rivet back.
5. Close setter until you feel/hear a little pop, and sometimes the material sticks to the top piece. Too much pressure and you break the rhinestone. Too little and you'll see the back isn't secured. It doesn't take much pressure, especially with thicker materials.
What you will need for this project:
Hot-fix rhinestones or Hot-Fix (Iron on) nailheads or rhinestuds
Mylar Film (special 'paper' used for heat transfers)
Tweezers or preferred, wax dop stick, than can handle whatever size rhinestones you plan to use.
An understanding of the following instructions. If you have questions, do not proceed until you have answers from us. Better to make a call than to make a mess.
Choose your word, picture, etc. The minimum letter height should be 3/4", Best letters are produced when the letters are at least 1" in height. If you are planning on placing this on a Tee-shirt or tank top, keep in mind the maximum width you can use, usually in the range of 9" or so. Phrases may have to be in more than one line. This should present no problem with most applications.
Go to your computer; choose a simple font, especially if the letters are to be small. The more fancy the font, the harder it will be to read the transfer unless you plan on placing your stones against each other. Even then, some scripts become very hard to decipher. To get a big enough font, it may be necessary to use a graphics program, such as Corel or Adobe...whatever you are used to. But, in general, MS Word has a maximum font size of 72, and that will not be big enough in most cases.
Either print out your word, picture, or phrase on CHEAP, 20 lb paper OR if in a graphics program, flip the transfer image to get a MIRROR image (easier than printing the word as it should appear) if you have the ability to do so.
IF your image is right side up (reads as you want the final to read), turn the paper over and place on a glass-top table. If you have reversed the image in the computer, you will not need to do this. (you will be making the transfer 'up-side-down', therefore, it MUST BE REVERSED by one method or another.
Dump your Heat Fix Rhinestones into a saucer. If you are using more than one size, color, or combinations, use separate saucers for each.
Cut a piece of transfer paper (about 1" bigger in all 4 directions than the image will be. (if the word, image, etc. is 4" X 6", then cut transfer paper 6" X 8") Do not remove the backing paper before cutting...you will have a mess. You need mylar film for this project. Don't even thing about using cellophane tape!!)
Tape the image to a working surface (Cellophane or masking tape...just to hold image in place.). IF you used the 'right side up-cheap printing paper' method, tape to a glass top table and place a light under the table so that you clearly can see the image. IF you used the reversed method in a graphics program, tape to any working surface right side up.
Remove the backing from the Transfer Paper and set aside in a safe place. Do not discard this backing. (Backing is usually white paper with a shiny side, or may be a translucent waffle backing). Place the clear transfer tape STICKY SIDE UP, centered over image and affix with a small amount of tape (cellophane or masking tape) over each corner...do not affix too well, for you will have trouble removing the transfer...just barely catch the corners is good enough.
Using tweezers or wax dop stick, place the Hot Fix Rhinestones FACE DOWN onto the tape exactly where you want them to be. IF you miss the place, you can remove and redo as often as it takes to get what you want. REMEMBER, the GOOD side of the rhinestone (shiny side with facets) goes DOWN into the tape.
Before you go any further, I should warn you. USE ONLY HOT FIX RHINESTONES FOR THIS PROCESS. The backings on Hot Fix rhinestones appears somewhat rough, may have small grid marks in it, is either gray or green, and it is matte. IF you have any doubt, place one of the rhinestones on a scrape of fabric and place an iron heated to 'Wool' on it. PRESS hard without moving the iron, hold for 25 seconds and lift iron straight up. Allow to cool some. Stone should be well affixed to fabric. If it is not, you have the wrong rhinestones to work with. Unless you are absolutely sure, always test the rhinestones. It is not a waste of time to do this test. ( When you order rhinestones, make sure you state, HOT FIX, IRON-ON, or HEAT SET. Test anyway, for errors can occur in shipping from any company.
Play to your heart's content, arrange, re-arrange, do whatever you want. When you are finished, carefully remove the tape at the corners of the transfer tape (MYLAR FILM) and replace the paper backing (shiny side) back onto the transfer tape. Be careful not to de-arrange your rhinestones. Now, when you turn your new transfer over, right side up, you will see the final product. If it is what you want, you are finished with this transfer. IF not, you can make changes at this point.
Use this method when you want a unique pattern with exact placement of rhinestones. Use this method when you want many identical images in rhinestones. When your needs exceed 25 or more transfers of the same image, it is probably better to consider having a custom transfer made for you, for this method is very time consuming.
Once you have the transfer made, you can apply it to any fabric with an iron or heat press. Peal the backing off the transfer, place the transfer onto the garment exactly where you want it. (you will not get a second chance once heat is applied, so take your time and place correctly...you can remove and re-place at this stage of the game. USE a NON-STEAM iron (no holes), heated to 'WOOL' setting. If you are setting to tank tops or Tee-shirts and have two layers of fabric on the ironing board, I suggest placing a scrap of sheeting or muslin between the two layers before applying heat, as the hot-melt glue could go through the 1st layer and stain the back layer. Bring the iron Straight down onto the transfer and press as hard as you can for 25 seconds or so. DO NOT apply heat longer, for the glue can diffuse into the fabric too much and not hold the stones well. Larger stones may take longer time...trial and error. DO NOT wiggle the iron or move it in any way while setting the stones, as you run the chance of moving the stones with the iron. Once the time is up, remove the iron by lifting straight up. Allow the tape to cool for about 5-10 seconds and remove tape by slowly peeling. The tape must be still warm, if not hot. Otherwise, the tape will bond to the fabric too well and will raise the nap of the fabric too much. If, when peeling the tape, stones come with it, you have not applied enough heat for enough time. Immediately stop peeling and replace, re-do the heat step, then try removing again. Usually, this will not happen. But it can with larger stones. So trial and error is the method to use. IF you have a Heat Press, set it to 350 degrees (Swarovski Stones) at 15 pounds pressure for 25 seconds.
18x13 sapphire cabochon 84 pcs
18x13 ruby cabochon 136 pcs
18x13 rims gold 52 pcs
ss30 sapphire rhinestones(acrylic faceted) 457 pcs
ruby rhinestones (acrylic faceted) 358 pcs
ss30 tiffany set gold 795 pcs
11mm sapphire cabochon 27 pcs
ruby cabochon 33 pcs
11mm rims gold 60 pcs
7mm sapphire cabochon 38 pcs
ruby cabochon 28 pcs
7mm rims gold 66 pcs
15mm ruby cabochon 8 pcs
15mm rims gold 8 pcs
ss40 flat spot gold 94 pcs
ss30 pearl nailhead gold 60 pcs
ss60 pearl nailhead gold (faceted diamond109) 35 pcs
752 nailhead gold (oblong large) 40 pcs
nailead gold (oblong small) 180 pcs
ss20 faceted pearl nailhead (109 gold) 2092 pcs
962 gold stars 20 pcs
ss70 stars gold(med) 55 pcs
ss60 stars gold(small) 180 pcs
ss40 stars gold(xsmall) 271 pcs
There you will be given links and advertising materials to receive a commission on referral traffic that buys from Dreamtime through your website.
Table Cut (also known as TTC or /2) is a pressed stone meaning the crystal was pressed into a mold to form the shape, then the top is cut (the table). Therefore, “TTC's” are less expensive than Machine Cut and work great for most applications. The /2 table cut versions have been mostly discontinued by Swarovski but we will continue to sell this economical version until we run out. They are the most popular due to their great value!
Length times Width will give you the area of a surface.
Example: if the phone was 2 by 4 Inches, then it would have 8 square inches of surface.
Stone Size and Number Required to Cover
One Square Inch
5SS - 253
6SS - 205
7SS - 170
9SS - 121
10SS - 105
12SS - 91
16SS - 51
20SS - 37
30SS - 20
34SS - 16
40SS - 11
42SS - 10
48SS - 7
1 Square Inch = 645.16 Square Millimeters
How To Calculate the Area of a Circle
1. Divide the diameter by 2 to find the radius.
2. Square the radius, that is, multiply it by itself. For example, the radius is 4 mm, then the square of that would be 4 x 4 which is 16mm.
3. Multiply the answer from step 2 (radius squared) by pi (3.1416). This is the area.
Antique- a stone with rounded corners
Bead- a piece with a through hole
Buff Top- a stone with a low domed top
Button- a stone or cluster of stones that is used in jewelry or fabric
Cabochon- a smooth domed stone
Cameo- a stone with raised engraving
Coatings- a vacuum coating applied to a piece to add luster or colored effect
Cross Hole Pendant- a pendant with a hole running side to side
Doublet- a stone with a facetted top and facetted back
High Cut- a steep domed stone, facetted or smooth
Hot Fix- an adhesive applied to the back of a stone to iron on to fabric
Intaglio- a stone with a recessed engraving
Lamp Stones/Beads- Individually made pieces by specialized process
Matte- a frosted surface
Mesh- a woven metal banding or sheet with or without stones
Opal- a milky color glass
Pearl- a bead or stone with an opaque pearlized coating
Pendant- a piece with a hole at one end
Pre-Set- a stone in a setting
Rondelle- multiple stones set into a metal base with a through hole
Roses- a facetted top, flat bottom stone
Sew-On- flat back stones with holes for sewing onto fabric
AB 2x - Same as AB but with coatings on both sides of the crystal. This makes the coating much more visible.
CAL - Comet Argent Light adds a silver foil layer to half of the crystal.
Hematite - A dark metallic coating.
Satin - Makes the crystals color more muted and natural.
These stones can be applied with your household iron, a heat press or a specialized tool such as, the BeJeweler or the Kandi Kane can also be used. These 2 tools will pick-up round rhinestones, heat them until the glue begins to melt so that you can attach them to your fabric. Its quick, it' clean and its easy.
The weakest link in the rhinestone system is its mirror backing, the coating on the back of a rhinestone is a mirror bonded to the glass. This mirror does not have a very strong bond with the glass and can be pulled free of the glass over time. This is why you may see a silver spot where a rhinestone used to be.
When you use heat set rhinestones, only the backing is glued to the fabric. These stones will come loose over time in a washing machine and/or dryer. It is highly advised to hand-wash any items with glued rhinestones, regardless of how they are put on the garment.
There are two methods of applying hot-fix rhinestones. The first method is by using the Hot-Fixer tool, and the second method involves the use of a standard iron.
Hot-Fixer Tool Method
Before plugging in hot-fix tool, ensure that you are using the proper sized attachment for the rhinestone size you wish to affix.
Plug in the hot-fix tool and lean it on the provided stand.
Take care not to touch the metal as it heats up.
Get your fabric ready and place it face up on a flat surface that can withstand heat.
Place all rhinestones face up in a separate area.
Pick up hot-fix tool by handle and place on the rhinestone; rhinestone should readily fit and affix to the tool.
Now place rhinestone onto fabric where you wish it to adhere.
Press rhinestone into place on fabric for a few seconds to let glue melt and adhere to fabric. Personally I watch until the glue begins to melt and then stick it on the fabric, it doesn't have to sit on the fabric that way. If the rhinestones are coming back up, the glue got too hot and you can fix that problem by holding the stone with a small object while lifting the tool back off. (I usually use a butter knife).
It may take a few tries to get this correct, but with practice you’ll be an expert!
Place fabric face up on a flat surface that can withstand heat.
Position rhinestone face up on fabric in the area where you wish it to adhere.
Heat up your iron to the lowest setting.
Once iron is heated, press and hold iron to the rhinestone; glue should melt and rhinestone should adhere to fabric.
Let dry and cool – voila, you’re done! I personally prefer to lay my entire design out on mylar paper and put the whole thing on at once with the iron.
Do not dry clean any garment that has any kind of glued stones on it, be it glue or heat fix. Regardless of the manufacturer, the cleaning fluids can denature the glue, cause it to become yellow and brittle, or just plain dissolve it.
Even Swarovski, who that says that their glue will withstand dry cleaning, some dry cleaning will not harm the glue, other dry cleaning will. And since you do not know what kind of fluids are used at any one time, you will not know if your stones will survive the process don't take the chance!
Rim Sets: consist of a ring of metal which covers edge of stone, pressed through cloth, over the stone and prongs that fold back over back of edge of stone. Each style has its advantages and disadvantages:
Tiffany sets show the whole stone and are relatively unobtrusive to the stone design. However, these will snag the closest fabric, particularly knits. When they do, not only can they damage whatever they have snagged, but also usually the prong is loosened or opened up and the stone is lost forever. NEVER use Tiffany mounts on under the sleeve or body area under sleeves the fabric will be ruined within the hour. However, Tiffany mounts are great for mounting large jewels on the front of your outfit, particularly at the neckline.
Rim Sets do not snag on anything, offer a very nice finished look, and protect the edges of rhinestones. Rim Sets completely cover the edge of whatever they are mounting. Here is the major disadvantage, when using small rhinestones, such as the 20SS, a major part of the stone is covered. When using Rim Sets, the pattern must be planned to include the rim, it will be an important part of the pattern. Rim Sets are used a lot in Equestrian outfits and Tack for Horses. If you use rim sets, plan to line the back of the prongs. The prongs will ruin hosiery. When Rim Setting on Leotards, care must be taken when putting on Leotards on to avoid this.
Use of Tiffany or Rim Sets involves a lot of prong bending. If you are planning of doing a lot of this work, I suggest buying a press such as the Home Pro LR (for rims) or the Deluxe rhinestone Setter (for tiffanys).
No matter which way you mount rhinestones, lightly glue the flat backs in place to create the pattern, then go back and apply the settings. The patterns are more precise, and the setting process is much faster.
2. Place motif on garment or textile with adhesive side down. Cover with PTFE Non-Stick sheet.
3. You are now ready to heat transfer. Use a dry iron, no steam. Use Cotton setting - temperature 300-340° F. Iron for 10-20 seconds.
4. Insert the PTFE Non-Stick sheet inside the garment and iron on the back of the garment approximately 30 seconds.
5. Allow motif to cool for approximately 10 seconds before removing clear protective film.
6. For a permanent seal, reapply PTFE Non-Stick sheet over motif and iron for another 20 seconds.
7. Your transfer should now be permanently sealed to the garment or fabric and is washer/dryer safe or may be dry-cleaned.
Metallic Nailheads & Crystal stones will NOT adhere to the following materials: Leather, Imitation Leather or Oil-Treated Fabrics, Waterproof Coated Fabrics (Teflon, Silicone, etc.), Rubberized Materials.
e.g. Silk, Polysilk, Lycra
Temperature: 325-340° F
Pressure: light (25-30 lb)
Time: 7-10 seconds
Remove clear film
Reapply heat for additional 7-10 seconds
e.g. Jersey, Fleece, Denim
Temperature: 350° F
Pressure: light to medium (30-40 lb)
Time: 10-12 seconds
Remove clear film
Reapply heat for additional 10-12 seconds
A rhinestone or paste is a diamond simulant made from rock crystal, glass or acrylic. Originally, rhinestones were rock crystals gathered from the river Rhine, but their availability was greatly increased when the Alsatian jeweller Georg Friedrich Strass had the idea to coat the lower side of glass with metal powder around 1775, imitating diamonds. Hence, rhinestones are called Strass in the German language.
Aurora borealis (AB) crystal tends to reflect whatever color is worn near it. The AB stone is named after the Northern Lights in Alaska also known as Aurora Borealis.
Rhinestones make excellent imitations of diamonds, and good manufacturers even capture the glistening effect that real diamonds have in the sun.
In 1955, the "Aurora Borealis" or "Aqua aura", a thin, vacuum-sputtered metallic coating applied to crystal stones to produce an iridescent effect, was introduced. Today, crystal rhinestones are primarily used on costumes, apparel and jewelry. They are produced mainly in Austria and the Czech Republic, while acrylic rhinestones are manufactured in several countries.
Heavy use of rhinestones is often associated with country music singers, as well as with Elvis Presley and Liberace. The rhinestone-studded Nudie suit was invented by Nudie Cohn in the 1940s, an Americanization of the matador's "suit of lights". Glen Campbell released an album named, and subsequently became known as, the Rhinestone Cowboy.